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Trevor  shares his experience with the replacement of the timber frame in vintage car bodies:
Most of the early vehicles used some timber in the frame and support structure. During your restoration, you may find it necessary to replace some or all of the wood because of it's deterioration through age and moisture.
Coastal Ash is a F17 grade hardwood and can be purchased from Bunnings. This timber is strong, light and straight-grained and easy to work. Select the wood carefully because some Coastal Ash may contain bloodlines.
Use marine quality epoxy glue ideally purchased from a marine supplier such as Boat Craft Pacific, 22 Babdoyle Street, Loganholme QLD 4129
('phone 07 3806 1944). Epoxy glue is a paste mixed at a 1:1 ratio, available in varying quantities and comes in the colours of honey, white and dark brown.
Extract from Restored Cars #208, Sept-Oct 2011
On October 28, 2010 the Queensland Historic Motoring Council received the following in response to a letter on the ethanol mandate for Queensland.
“The Queensland Government recently considered legislation to introduce an ethanol mandate and has decided to delay this measure for at least twelve months.
This decision is considered appropriate given the ongoing uncertainty in relation to domestic ethanol supply and proposed changes to the Commonwealth Government excise arrangements.
Queensland’s intention in implementing an ethanol mandate was to consolidate the development on an ethanol industry, based on first generation technologies, with the view to supporting an efficient transition to a second generation ethanol industry. Domestic ethanol supply has not expanded as expected making it likely an ethanol mandate would create demand for imported ethanol.
I acknowledge that industry has undertaken preparations to roll out increased ethanol blended fuel sales with the support of the Government. The Queensland Government will continue to work with industry to support the continued uptake of ethanol-blended fuels.
Diversifying Queensland’s transport fuel mix to include a greater share of renewable fuels like ethanol remains part of the Queensland Government’s fuel security and climate change agenda.
If you require further information, Ms. Hunckfuss, Assistant Director, Office of Clean Energy, Department of Employment, Economic Development and Innovation, will be pleased to assist you and can be contacted on telephone 07 3224 2485.
Yours sincerely, ANDREW FRASER, Treasurer, Minister for Employment and Economic Development.”
The anniversary date for that announcement is fast approaching, so it will be interesting to see what news is forthcoming.
Richard, from the QHMC, is working on a report on E10, which will be presents to the appropriate minister when finished.
Doug Matrix has a column in the Lincoln & Continental Owners Club Magazine, Lincoln & Continental Comments. His column is headed “Legislative Spotlights” and in May/June issue he discusses the ethanol addition to petrol.
“Ethanol fuel is touted by green folks as a renewable alternative to replace some hydrocarbon use. They started with 10% ethanol added to gasoline in the early 90s. This is tolerated if not used all the time. The ethanol attacks parts in cars built before 2004, such as fuel hoses, fuel pumps diaphragms, carby parts, O-rings and it is reactive agent to galvanised fuel tanks & lines plated with zinc.”
He goes on to explain that fuel laced with ethanol will go bad when left sitting, with no motion, for approximately two weeks. There are a couple of other factors also involved such as temperature and humidity.
The reason it goes bad is that the two fuel types separate and once separated they will not mix as the additive, which allows the two types to mix actually evaporates.
The recommendation that comes out of this is not to use ethanol fuels in anything where the fuel will not be used within two weeks and not in anything manufactured before 2004.
Suggestions from Trevor regarding POWER STEERING FLUID:
The power steering oil should be changed at regular intervals although the manufacturer may not include this instruction in the service schedule. The power steering fluid can at times operate under high pressures and temperatures therefore the oil and it's additive package can be depleted within a short period of time. Usually, there is no oil filter in the power steering system so any solid contaminates in the oil keep circulating within the system resulting in excessive wear.
At full lock, the oil passes across the oil pressure relief valve if fitted. This action creates high temperatures and pressure, which destroys the oil and the additives. Some power steering systems are not fitted with an oil pressure relief valve as they rely on drive-belt slippage as a pressure relief mechanism. Therefore the pressures and temperatures in the system can be even higher.
Some power steering systems may be fitted with an oil flow control valve. The flow control valve maintains a constant oil flow rate within the system independent of the engine speed.
An aftermarket power steering oil filter may be fitted to the oil return line to filter out the solid contaminates. Incorporated within the filter is a bypass valve which allows the oil to bypass the filter if the filter becomes restricted.
Change the oil in the reservoir every time the engine oil is changed. This is accomplished by pumping the reservoir dry and refilling with the recommended oil.
Trevor suggests that all vehicle owners and service personnel should read this article concerning brake fluid -
http://www.vacc.com.au/ConsumerInfo/FivePointSafetyCheck/Brakesbrakefluidandairbags/BrakeFluid/tabid/2484/Default.aspx
Here is some info passed on by Trevor during his fine hands-on restoration of his 1929 tourer:
Chev Tappet Oiling Modification
The rocker ends and valve tips did not appear to be receiving enough oil so I decided to try a modification.
I closed off the relief on the rocker shaft oil return. I then ran an oil line, 3/16" dia, from the hole I drilled in the fitting between the rockers. I then fitted an oil line with 12 small holes drilled in it that collated with the rocker ends and secured it with brackets. The oil now slowly drips over the rocker tip and valve stem tip. This extra oil also helps keep the top end clean by washing the contaminates into the sump.
As there are no valve stem seals on the valves, a small amount of oil will enter the combustion chamber.
1929-1941 Chevrolet Master Parts Price List (6 cylinder models)
chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/parts/1929_41/index.html
1930 instructions for the operation and care of Chevrolet Motor Cars - Universal Series AD
chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/chevyowner/30omindex.htm
1931 Chevrolet Service News Bulletins
chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/bulletins/31csnindex.htm
1931 Fisher Body Service Manual
chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/fisher/1931/index.htm
6 volt 3-pin thermal flasher unit
This unit plugs straight in and works! It has a rating of 25 watts which is more than ample (to calculate the amperage load divide the applied voltage by the wattage - 25 divided by 6 = 4.16 amps).
It is a TRIDON thermal 6 volt 3-pin flasher unit Part No. TF63 obtainable from Neil Anderson Automotive - sales@naauto.biz (02) 6026 3391 or 0428 578 061
Kevin & Bryan have recently (2011) had the leaf-spring rear suspension of their 1954 sedans overhauled at Fulcrum, Fairfield Road, Yeerongpilly. Gary there garyd@fulcrumsuspensions.com.au is kind to old cars (and their owners) and the jobs were done efficiently and at reasonable cost.
Trevor recently contacted Bob Clark bobclark2@gmail.com, a Charter Member of GMC Club of America whose motto is "If it's vintage GMC or Chevrolet - I'm interested" - parts, literature - Buy-Sell-Trade regarding a troublesome RJH-80 125S Carter Carburettor -
"the fuel economy of our 1929 Chev was very poor. So poor that the fuel was fouling the spark plugs resulting in misfiring spark plugs (usually No.3 & 4). We were averaging about 12-13 mpg (Imperial gallon). I was using a 119 main jet and what measured up to be the correct metering needle. I have since changed the main jet which is now a 734 (could be 134) which is smaller as I had both jets measured using number drills. About 4 sizes smaller. The jet I used was about 2-3mm shorter and when installed was level with the venturi housing when viewed from the throttle valve end. I salvaged a slightly larger diameter metering needle from a Club member. I am now averaging about 21 mpg on a trip, which I am told, is about expectations. I drive at 50 mph. It has been suggested by a Member that it should be averaging about 24 mpg. I am happy with the engine's performance. What are your thoughts?
What size is the thread for the accelerator pump short body as I had a few carburettor bodies with some having 1/8" gas thread and others having a course thread? I have not measured the thread but it looks to be 3/8"UNC thread. Maybe they were tapped out when the accelerator pump body broke off so a bolt could be fitted.
What is the cost of the small dumpy accelerator pump housing?"
Bob replied:
We have new Short Pumps with new plunger.
Our cost is $130
Unlike the original pumps made of "pot metal" these are made of brass.
We have installed the pumps on a number of Updraft Carter Carburettors.
I would be happy to sell one at our cost plus $13 shipping.
Thread size is 3/8".
We also have:
Spark plugs
New brass bowls
Gaskets
Needle & seat
Standpipes & choke cones and all repair parts for the RJH-08 Carburetor.
Bob Clark, 105 Wolftrap Road SE, Vienna, VA 22180-4940
Kevin has recently had occasion to have the electrics on his 1954 sedan checked out and repaired by Dave teaat93@hotmail.com and can recommend the service provided and at reasonable cost
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